Premium, 3-Way Adjustable Suspension Upgrade For The Ultimate Off-Road Setup
Australia is widely regarded as the birthplace of overlanding. As such, they have had more years of experience with it than the rest of the world and any Australian-made product leans heavily everything they’ve learned. As far as suspension goes, Dobinsons is one of the best and has been at it since 1953.
Before my Bronco, I had the Dobinsons MRR kit on a 3rd Gen Tacoma, and I was absolutely in love with it. Having that experience, I eagerly waited to lift the Bronco until Dobinsons released the MRR kit. Before I jumped into the MRR, I ran the IMS – a great middle ground option for those considering lifting their trucks. Check out my Dobinsons IMS install and review post to learn more.
But for this post, we took it all the way home with (almost every) premium component Dobinsons has to offer. Let’s get into it.
Find It Online
- MRR Lift Kit
- 4 Door: Check Price
- 2 Door: Check Price
- Rear Adjustable Lower Trailing Arms: Check Price
Table Of Contents
Install Considerations
Before you start ripping apart the Bronco, there are some things you should check. I wish I had looked at these items prior as it would have saved me a lot of time and allowed me to prepare better for the installation.
Look at all the stock suspension components that are about to be removed, specifically the mounts. Inspect them for any damage and address any necessary fixes. For example, the mounts for the lower control arms, the lower shock mount on the axle, and the trailing arms are all prone to rock damage.
On my Bronco, the lower shock mount in the rear was bent so badly that I couldn’t repair it. This meant the stock brackets had to be cut out and new ones welded, adding 3 days to this install.
To be clear, no cutting or welding is required for this lift kit. I had to just because there was irreparable damage on the mount. If everything is clear, this is a bolt-in kit.
Before Measurements
Before tearing into the Bronco, take some before measurements. The best way to measure is from the wheel hub’s center to the fender flare’s bottom.
Stabilization Bar Disconnect
Remove one of the connections of the end link. It doesn’t matter if you disconnect it at the top or bottom of the end link.
Also, if you would like to follow along with a video, I’ll link my YouTube video at the end of this post.
Skid Plate Removal
During the IMS install, I took off my skids to install the stabilizer bar relocation and the diff drop. Please see the link in the beginning if you want a closer look.
Step 1. Loosen Strut Tower Bolts
Loosen the (3) 15mm bolts on the top of the strut. Do not fully remove these, otherwise they may fall out when in the process of the next few steps. Leave a few threads on each to hold it in place, while giving it some movement.
Step 2. Disconnect UCAs
Loosen the 18mm bolt holding that upper control arm to the steering knuckle, leaving some of the bolt threaded. Once it is loose, take a hammer and hit the side of the knuckle where the bolt goes through. This should loosen the bolt from the steering knuckle, and the nut will catch the knuckle before it pops out.
Supporting the steering knuckle and then fully remove the nut.
Step 3. Axle Nut Removal
With the UCA disconnected, remove the axle nut using a 36mm socket and ideally an impact gun. These are torqued to very heavy specs, which may take some work. Once the nut is off, remove the axle from the hub.
Step 4. Lower Shock Bolt Removal
Remove the (2) 18mm bolts holding the strut to the lower control arm. Once removed, you can drop the lower control arm completely out of the way. Again, a Mallet might be needed here.
Step 5. Strut Removal
Next, remove the (3) 15mm bolts loosened in Step 6. Support the strut so it does not fall out of the tower and cause injury. I used one hand to hold the spring and anchored it on the strut tower as I removed the bolts.
Note: You may have to remove the tie rod from the knuckle (I did) to give yourself enough room to remove the strut.
Step 6. Setting Spring Seat Height
When setting the front spring seat height, Dobinsons recommends setting it at 9.55″ from the center of the lower bolt to where the lowest point of the spring will sit on the spring seat. This gave me 5″ of lift, which was entirely too much.
After some trial and error, I ended at 7.25″, which resulted in about 1.5″ of lift. I recommend starting at 7.75″ and adjusting from there. The rear spring seat height should be set at 7.66″
Once the spring seat height is set, lock the nuts using the provided shock wrenches.
Step 7. Install Front Coilovers
To install the coilovers, you will do everything you did during the removal steps but in the reverse order. Feed the strut into place between the lower control arm, and hand tighten at least one of the nuts on the top hat to hold in place. From here, slide the bottom strut mount bolts through the two holes in the lower control arm and hand-tighten the nuts.
From here, use a jack to lift the lower control arm into place since it is under tension of the front strut. The cam plate will only go on the cam bolt one way. Once on, line it up to the markings before removal. You will still need an alignment, but this will get you to the shop with something close.
At this point, it is just a matter of bolting up the sway bar bolts, and all the other bolts here. Please note that components with bushings should be torqued when they have a load on them. Don’t forget to install the reservoir bracket as well.
Step 8. Remove Rear Fender Liner
The rear strut installation starts with the removal of the fender liner. If you are anything like me, this will be a very messy job.
There are (3) 7mm bolts at the front of the liner, (1) thumb screw on the driver side and (2) thumb screws on the passenger side at the top of the liner, and many push pins. All will need to be removed before you can pull the liner out.
Step 9. Access Rear Strut Tower
To gain access to the (3) 15mm bolts on the strut tower, you will need to bend some sheet metal out of the way. Directly above these bolts is a small portion of metal hanging down – bend that out of the way using a mallet.
Step 10. Remove Lower Strut Mount Bolt
To remove the lower strut mount bolt, you will need a 27mm and a 30mm socket. I put the 27mm on a ratcheting wrench, and the 30mm on an impact gun.
In the photo above I have the lower trailing arm bolt removed. I found that may not be necessary when swapping the struts. If you are not going to be replacing the lower trailing arms at the same time, leave them bolted in.
Step 11. Remove Rear Strut Tower Bolt
With the lower bolt removed, it is time to remove the strut tower bolts. Remove the (3) 15mm bolts holding the strut to the strut tower. When you are at the end of the last bolt, ensure the strut is supported so it does not fall.
Note the orientation of the top hat with the lower shock bolt. I first test-fitted the rear as it was less forgiving than the front. You can see in the photo above that the spring compressors are still on the spring, allowing me to twist the top hat freely.
Step 12. Mount Reservoir Bracket
Before installing the mounting brackets, feed the hose clamps through the slits on the top of the mounts. There will be two hose clamps on each mount. The mounts are labeled as to which side they go on, so find the appropriate size, and position the mount where it needs to be. They will go in two pre-drilled holes just behind the top strut mount.
Step 13. Install Rear Shocks
Just like with the front, position the top hat in the strut tower and loosely install at least (1) 15mm bolt. From here, you can install the lower bolt.
When you install the lower bolt, two spacers go on either side of the lower shock bushing. Do not forget to place these as they keep the shock centered in the bracket.
With everything in place, begin to tighten the bolts. Lift the rear axle with a jack for the top hat to fully seat inside the strut tower. DO NOT tighten the bolts while the axle is at full droop – this can damage the threads or even sheer the bolt entirely.
Do not torque these components until the vehicle is back on the ground.
Step 14. Remove Rear LCA
There are (2) 24mm bolts holding the lower links in place. You may need a breaker bar to get these off. Also, do this while the vehicle is at ride height as there is the least tension.
Step 15. Set Link Length
Measure the stock LCA from the center of the bolt hole on one side to the center of the bolt hole on the other side. This may not be where the new bar needs to be, but it will be a good starting point.
The lower control arms are responsible for keeping the rear axle/wheels steady and in line with the frame. They also ensure proper alignment for driveshaft angles. The Dobinsons’ ones are much more beefy than stock, and allow for additional adjustment in case you experience vibrations or shifting after adding a lift kit. They are not a must, but they hang low and can get damaged by rocks. It is nice being able to adjust the rear end should you experience any issues as well.
Once the proper length is set, install the new arms.
On a final note, I had previously swapped my adjustable panhard when I installed my IMS kit. Reference the link in the intro paragraph if you’re curious.
Step 16. Reinstall Wheels & Alignment
Finally, it is time to put the wheels back on the rig and get this thing on the ground! Once it is on the ground, torque everything you touched during this install and retorque the wheels after about 100 miles of driving.
Torque Specs
- Outer Tie Rod – 46 ft-lb
- Skid Plates – 22 ft-lb
- Shock Absorber Assembly Lower Nuts (Front) – 66 ft-lb
- Stabilizer Bar Link Lower Nut – 122 ft-lb
- Lower Control Arm Bolts – 210 ft-lb
- Shock Absorber Lower Bolt & Nut – 350 ft-lb
- Shock Absorber Upper Nut – 41 ft-lb
- Front Stabilizer Bar Bracket – 66 ft-lb
- Rear Shock Absorber Upper Nut – 41 ft-lb
- Rear Lower Control Arms – 159 ft-lb
You will need to get the vehicle aligned before driving it too far. A good alignment tech will set the alignment of the rear components by adjusting the panhard bar and lower trailing arms before tackling the front alignment.
Initial Impressions
The first thing I noticed with the MRR installed is how sporty the Bronco feels. It is a smoother ride than the HOSS 2.0 I had from the factory, but more supportive than the IMS kit from before. There is far less body lean and brake dive compared to the IMS.
The MRR handles additional weight well and while there is certainly weight transfer when cornering, it feels very stable. Under low-speed compressions, the ride is a little stiffer so on-road handling is confidence-inspiring, for a big SUV at least.
The high-speed compression is a different story. Hit a bump hard and fast, and this turns into an absolute cloud. I can barely feel that I hit something. As such, off-road performance is top-notch. I’ll go into more detail when I compare the IMS vs. the MRR, but the MRRs are made for whatever the terrain throws at you.
What I love most about the MRRs is the adjustability. When I am on pavement, I stiffen up the low-speed compression, and off-road, I can soften things up with just a few turns of the dial on the reservoirs.
Final Thoughts
Overall, the installation was relatively easy. Full disclosure, I had this done at a shop because quite honestly, I am too broken to do this stuff in my driveway anymore.
Again, compared to the IMS, I will say that the MRRs feel a lot sportier. The Bronco stays flatter in the corners but as soon as it hits a hard bump, it just floats. It is also amazing how quickly the Bronco settles after these harder hits. You’ll want to stay tuned for my detailed comparison, which is coming out soon!
